Gourmet and Kölsch in Cologne
Cologne itself has more pubs and restaurants per person than any other city.
Paul’s Restaurant, in the Bülowstrasse (T. +49 221 766839), a short tram ride from the city centre, is a gourmet temple, specialising in veal - as does L’Escalier (Brüsseler Straße 11, T. +49 221 120 53998), where Jens Dannenfeld cooks wafer-thin schnitzel and finely-minced rissoles, served with Rübstil, or pureed Swede. You can drink wine, of course, but many Kölner prefer beer, a Kölsch, served in slim 0.2 litre beer glasses, which the waiters will keep replenishing. “Et is no emmer joot jejange,” they may say after a few glasses. “Things always turn out well.”
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